it cosmetics HYPOCRISY

New Pinterest tool lets you add skin color to your search results

@bufferingbetty

Por fin.

Admit it. You’re single and have a secret Pinterest board full of rustic-twinkle light aesthetic that is exactly what you’d want for your dream wedding. Yeah, same. I love scrolling through recipes and beauty looks but, like many media outlets, Pinterest has makes the seeing the representation of people of color like, well, finding a black model on Pinterest. Nearly impossible.

I’m just gonna say it.

Pinterest has been a ‘hail to the size 4 boho white girl whose hair flows long and blonde with summer tanned skin.” In every category. On every mood board. At all times. That is a really tough thing for some people to hear and, the thing is, I’m ok with that. It should make you uncomfortable when you realize that your favorite app to scroll through doesn’t celebrate all people.

What keeps all of us on Pinterest is the fact that it is women celebrating each other.

(And all the organizational tips, right? #virgo4lyfe)

How many times have you shown your hair stylist screenshots of the perfect highlights you saw on Pinterest.

For many of us WOC, seeing how those highlights or that eye shadow color might look with our skin color took a carpal tunnel educing amount of time to find. If you did not explicitly type ‘hair style’ followed by ‘black woman, asian woman, woc,” chances are that you scrolled and scrolled and scrolled and still didn’t find someone with a complexion similar to your own.

I have literally typed in my foundation or concealer shade in order to find women who look like me.

Pinterest did an update this week that POC have been asking for for a long time now.

Look at these tweets as your receipts:

 
 
 

I’ve had this exact conversation with my own sister. We were trying to find some Puerto Rican recipes for the holidays that weren’t created by someone went to La Isla Del Encanto and pinned their watered down version of sancocho.

 
 
 
 
 

Search by skin color

After you have entered your search, Pinterest has had a row of suggestions to help narrow your search. Now, por fin, finally, the new feature lets you add a skin color. They have added 4 color wheels to choose from. Pick the color wheel that most closely represents the skin color you are looking for. Here I searched ‘glowy makeup.” As you can see, the default result images are of lighter skinned women.

 
 

The row of suggestions still includes the option to add, for example, “Dark Skin,” and “Black Girl” to your search like it did before.

Pinterest is an homage to white girls with blonde hair.

Just look at this search of pretty hairstyle from this morning. Pretty hair according to Pinterest is naturally straighter and on a white woman.

But hopefully this new feature will help up us who don’t fit that mold get some inspo too.

 
 

This new feature isn’t all the way there yet. Not all searches include the option to add a skin tone to it. I looked up ‘purple smokey eye’ and the color wheels did not pop up. Instead it was the original way you had to search: waiting for the exclusionary results to then add who you are really looking for.

 
 

Why does all of this even matter?

Pinterests search results reinforced our societal flaw that we understand beauty as being in one form. It emphasized that ‘white, thin; blonde’ is the default for beauty. You could argue that that hasn’t changed because you still need to add a skin color instead of there being a natural mix of different women in the search results. I agree. White woman is still the Pinterest default setting. However, adding the 4 color wheels is a step in the right direction.


As a beauty editor, I try to be conscious of the beauty shots I choose to share. Pinterest is one of my most frequented sights when it comes to searching for a specific beauty look. Especially when I draft B. Scopes; meetpepperb.com’s beauty horoscopes. I spend a lot of time trying to find WOC: east and south asian, black, latina. All of us. Women and men with all skin tones but I do my best to focus on medium to darker skin tones. Even after I have chosen “The Look” for the horoscope, If I’m not finding models of different skin colors, I abandon that look and find something new. Even if I REALLY wanted to use that look.

I do this because it would be so very easy to just pick 10 pictures of pretty light skinned women.

Easy because we have been conditioned to recognize beauty through a eurocentric gaze. I refuse to be a partner in encouraging that one standard of beauty. I don’t always get it right. I’ve checked my work and I want more diversity.

I think this is a major improvement to Pinterest but I do hope to eventually see a more a organically diverse search result.

beauty is in All of Us.

Why IT Cosmetics Challenging The Beauty Industry To Be More Diverse Is Absolutely Ridiculous

It’s absolute lunacy.

@bufferingbetty 

I have a question for Jamie Kern Lima. How did your images of beauty impact our mothers and our sisters, and how did they impact our daughters? What did you do with the power that is you? 

Founder of IT Cosmetics, Jamie Kern Lima, accepted the CEW Achiever Award and gave an acceptance speech which has gone viral. Kern Lima told the story of how her brand came to be. Despite being rejected by an investor who doubted she could sell beauty because she is overweight, she kept going. As a plus size girl myself, I felt empowered by her success! I did! She proved that age and weight cannot define beauty. After the success of IT Cosmetics, the body shaming investor emailed Kern Lima and admitted he made and mistake and congratulated her. That was some real fat girl vindication right there! 

Jamie Kern Lima goes on to challenge the beauty industry to change the images they use to market their products. As a consumer, I think she is right. I am so tired of false images of women being used to build onto my insecurities so they can sell products. I do want to see women like me, to see women like my friends, and people in my family to be the faces of the beauty industry. Kern Lima said, “I believe the most beautiful women are real. We come in all shapes. We come in all sizes. We come in all different hair textures, all skin tones. We come in all ages.” She wants the beauty industry to realize that the lack of diversity causes people to feel less about themselves. She ends with: "How will these images of beauty impact your mothers and your sisters, and how will they impact your daughters? ...What will you do with the power that is you?”

IT Cosmetics is pushing for diversity? The company who carries 7 shades of foundation. The shades that range from fair to medium. The company who carries 5 shades of light foundation and 2 shades of sorta brown -but on a day when you feel sick -shades of foundation. That is the company who congratulated itself for being diverse. The company that asked brands to look at images of beauty they put forward and change them to bring forth diversity. Jamie Kern Lima gave a speech about having a successful company because of the unique marketing tactic of featuring before and after images of real women. The thing is, ya’ll really left out a ton of real women.  

What actually happened, is that IT Cosmetics showed other beauty brands how successful a company can be without women of color with darker skin tones. That the exclusion of women with skin that is deeper than tan is worth a $1.2 billion acquisition. 

IT Cosmetics did not revolutionize the beauty industry. They capitalized on their target market. When you think of who buys IT Cosmetics, what comes to mind are women in their 40s, moms, small business owners, and executives. They sell an image of success. That is who they believe their consumers aspire to be. Their makeup isn’t glitz and glam. IT Cosmetics is neutral, it’s work wear, it’s great skincare. Let’s look at Urban Decay for their marketing and who their target audience is. Urban Decay is edgy, young, daring, and fearlessly colorful. Hiring actor Ruby Rose to be the face of their Vice Lipstick launch fit their mold. Ruby Rose embodied the UD image. That image is who their shoppers aspire to be. IT Cosmetics made their mold. Who fits in it and who doesn’t. They used target marketing to become successful. They didn’t have to spend money on pulling in different types of consumers. 

Jamie Kern Lima spoke about the models they hired and images they used highlighting real women. There was age diversity but that’s about it. IT Cosmetics didn’t need to hire young models because young makeup wearers don’t fear fine lines. They didn’t use editorially thin models because the average middle-aged woman is not supermodel skinny. IT Cosmetics doesn’t make complexion products for darker women. Dark women of color were not part of IT Cosmetics image of success. Or at least that is the message we received. 

Furthermore, the names they give their foundation shades are deceptive. For their foundation Confidence in a Compact, IT Cosmetics labeled the darkest shade 'deep.' However, the description of the shade is "rich tan." Deep or tan, it can't be both. 

(source) These are 5 of 7 swatches of their Confidence In a Compact. As someone with a medium-tan complexion, I don't believe that of the shades a brand has available, that I should be able to use the deepest.

It’s astounding that IT Cosmetics sends PR packages to dark-skinned bloggers with the hopes of being featured for some low-cost advertising. They have the audacity to request PR from people who can’t even wear their complexion products. Here is the difficult spot beauty bloggers often find themselves in. Speaking up to defend themselves from a brand could mean missing out on getting PR. Those PR packages mean we can create for our followers without breaking our budgets. While as a blogger, I am grateful for any PR from any company. But never will I stay silent when something is as unconscionable as the exclusion of women of color. 

Women of color matter. We deserve to feel and be seen as beautiful. We should see ourselves represented in waves, not in puddles. Never doubt that we have the courage to speak up for ourselves and each other. You can not speak about diversity while excluding darker women.

2,379 Likes, 140 Comments - IT Cosmetics (@itcosmetics) on Instagram: "@jamiekernlima: Today I was fearless, but I said what needed to be said. And on behalf of real..."

In an interview with Allure, Jamie Kern Lima was asked if she received any backlash since her speech has gone viral. This was her response:

“Every time you do something brave in life, it always comes with haters and critics, and of course anytime you are fearless and speak up against the status quo, the same thing happens.”

It’s not ‘hating’ when you tell someone that you matter. If you truly believe in your message, you would not fear a critic. It’s not brave to be successful while excluding an entire population. And you did not stand up against the status quo. You were right next to them the whole time. 
 

See Jamie Kern Lima's full speech here. 

What are your thoughts? Has IT Cosmetics done enough to challenge the beauty industry on diversity?